Hidden Cotswold Tour 3rd May 2024
Rain was the order of the day and sadly, cold too. Barely reaching above 9 degrees. But this was not going to deter us. We met at the Fleece Hotel in Cirencester at 10:00am and following introductions and a quick detour via the laundrette, we set off.
Bibury
Bibury was our first port of call. As usual the village was busy but we were fortunate that there was a space to park and we wandered down to Arlington Row and returned back to the car via Arlington Mill.
The main attraction of Bibury is Arlington Row. A group of ancient cottages with steeply pitched roofs. Originally built in the 14th Century as a wool store, they were converted to cottages in the 16th Century.
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Eastleach Turville
Getting away from the crowds, I took to the back roads and drove through the beautiful Coln Valley. Which despite the weather was looking fabulous.
We stopped in Eastleach Turville and walked past the Church of St Andrew and along the river to the ancient Clapper bridge. A huge contrast from Bibury as it was just us and the birds. That was, until we met a couple walking their bulldog (type) dog.
Eastleach is made up of the two former parishes of Eastleach Martin and Eastleach Turville. They are separated by an old stone road bridge and an ancient clapper bridge, both of which span the narrow River Leach. The Clapper bridge dates back to the middle ages and has been used by people and horses for centuries.
Burford
Back in the car and we took the road to Burford. We managed to find a parking space by the church and had a walk around. I pointed out the tomb of the much-hated Lawrence Tanfield and his wife.
There was time for a quick coffee and an opportunity to use their facilities, before driving on.
Burford is a beautiful old Cotswold town. Its High Street slopes down from the high Wolds, providing beautiful views over the open countryside, down to the willow fringed River Windrush in the pretty Windrush valley. A fine three arched medieval bridge crosses the river at the foot of the hill.
The Mount Inn Stanton
We took the road trough Taynton, once famous for the stone that came from its quarries. Past Barrington Estate and a quick look at the folly in the deer park.
Hitting Bourton-on-the-Water we both agreed that there was no need to stop as it was crawling with tourists. Also, it was time for lunch and we had a table booked at the Mount Inn in Stanton.
Stanton is probably one of the prettiest and idyllic villages in the whole of the Cotswolds. Little changed in 300 years it nestles beneath the slopes of Shenbarrow Hill. It has a very pleasing long main street with several delightful corners where the ancient house are built in typical Cotswolds style with steeply pitched gables, mullioned windows and glowing honey coloured limestone walls.
Broadway Tower
Darryl had been to this pub many years ago and it was good to be able to bring him here again. Sadly the views were not as good as they might have been.
Lunch done, we drove on through Broadway just stopping for a couple of photos. From here up the hill to see Broadway Tower. I let Darryl out to walk along and up to the tower for a closer view.
Back in the car we dropped down in to Chipping Campden.
Built in 1799, Broadway Tower is a perfect example of an eighteenth century Gothic folly from which it is possible to survey an area which includes as many as thirteen counties.
It was built for Lady Coventry to see if she could see it from her home some distance away. She could, but never visited it!
Chipping Campden
In Chipping Campden we stopped to see the local market going on in the 17th Century Market hall
then parked up by the large ‘Wool’ Church of St James.
Having reached the most northen town of the Cotswolds it was time to work our way back down South.
Many years ago, Darryl had visited Weston Subedge so we took a short diversion for a quick trip down memory lane.
From Weston Subedge, I decided to take a little detour and stop off at Donnington Brewery and show Darryl where his lunch-time pint of BB was made.
Chipping Campden is one of the loveliest small towns in the Cotswolds and a gilded masterpiece of limestone and craftsmanship. The main street curves in a shallow arc lined with a succession of ancient houses each grafted to the next but each with its own distinctive embellishments.
Lower Slaughter
Then onto the Slaughters. We drove through Upper Slaughter, a “double-thankful” village and onto Lower Slaughter. Here we got out and walked up and down the bank of the river Eye.
Then back in the car and up the hill and into the highest town in the Coswolds (800ft), Stow-on-the-Wold.
We got out to look at the Porch House, the ‘Oldest’ Inn in the country dating back to 947AD, the Church doors and a photo opportunity at the old stocks.
The name of the village of Lower Slaughter stems from the Old English name for a wet land ‘slough’ or ‘slothre’ (Old English for muddy place) upon which it lies. This quaint village sits beside the little Eye stream and is known for its unspoilt limestone cottages in the traditional Cotswold style.
Route
It was then back down to Cirnecester, along the ancient Roman road, the Fosse way.
Despite the weather, it was a great day out and we did get to see a lot of the North Cotswolds.
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